Skip to content India’s history, forged by centuries of trade and colonisation, is one of the world’s richest. These events didn’t just draw political boundaries; they reshaped the national palate. Food became a medium of exchange and identity, transforming what Indians eat, how they cook, and even how they think about flavour. Over the centuries, these influences merged with regional ingredients and traditions, creating dishes that are global in concept yet deeply Indian in character.
Even before European sailors anchored off the subcontinent, India’s cuisine was already an intricate tapestry of influences. India’s saffron-laced Biryanis serve as a culinary legacy of the Mughal courts. Kormas and Samosas also reflect the blend of Persian techniques with Indian tastes. Rich Persian sauces were built upon ghee (clarified butter), an ancient and foundational staple of the cuisine.
The Portuguese occupied parts of Western India in the 16th century, marking the first major European influence. They left a long-lasting culinary legacy, introducing ingredients that soon became Indian staples: chillies, potatoes, tomatoes, and cashews. This gave rise to Luso-Indian cuisine, which blends Portuguese culinary methods with Indian spices. The Goan vindaloo is the perfect example, having evolved from the Portuguese vinha d’alhos (“meat of wine with garlic”). Vinegar replaced wine, and spices replaced herbs, creating the fiery curry dish we know today. Beyond just adaptation, their legacy also includes direct imports, such as Serradura, or the Macau Pudding, a layered dessert popular not only in Portugal and Macau, but also in former Portuguese colonies in China and Goa.
The British added their own layer of influence in the 18th century, leading to the rise of Anglo-Indian cuisine. In the colonial kitchens, officers relied on Indian chefs to adapt local dishes using milder spices. Mulligatawny soup, derived from Tamil milagu thanni (“pepper-water”), became a hearty, creamy dish suiting European tastes. The Railway Mutton Curry was invented for long journeys, while Kedgeree offers an example of adaptation. This popular British breakfast is an Anglicised version of the Indian khichdi (rice and lentil dish), which British officers transformed by adding smoked fish and eggs. These combinations reflected colonial hierarchies, British expectations of how a meal should be constructed upon Indian ingredients and local techniques.
Meanwhile, in the south, the French influenced Pondicherry, leaving their mark through baking, inspiring Indo-French cuisine. The Pondicherry Fish Assad Curry, and Meen Puyabaise, a local adaptation of the French Bouillabaisse, stand as lasting reminders. The Dutch introduced coconut-based stews to Kerala, which locals paired with traditional appam, while Burmese migrants brought Khao Suey.
Beyond the direct results of rule and colonisation, immigration and settlement within that framework also played a crucial role. For me, the most fascinating example is a personal favourite: Gobi Manchurian. I was introduced to the dish as a fussy 6-year-old, whining that my parents had ordered it instead of chili chicken. But from the first bite my mom forced into my mouth, I was in love. Gobi Manchurian is the perfect case study, a dish that, famously, has no roots in China itself. It was born in Kolkata, the port capital of the British Raj. There, a community of Chinese immigrants took their native techniques, wok-frying and traditional ingredients, and applied them to a local vegetable, gobi (cauliflower), adapting the dish to local Indian tastes, creating the uniquely spicy and crispy dish loved today.
And this culinary evolution didn’t stop when the colonial powers left. Today, the spirit of fusion has moved from the high tables of the Raj to the bustling streets of modern India. The experiments continue, but now on India’s own terms. From Tandoori Paneer Pizzas and Schezwan Dosas to the contemporary reinvention of classics like Chocolate Kulfi or Gulab Jamun Cheesecake, the boundaries are constantly blurring. It is proof that while history brought these ingredients to India’s shores, it is the Indian imagination that keeps reinventing them.
The beauty of India lies in its diversity, which finds its richest expression in food. These dishes are more than mere remnants; they serve as living, edible records of cultural exchange. They demonstrate how foreign influences, even under conditions of power imbalance, were not simply copied but transformed into something unique. The empires may have fallen, but their flavours remain, simmering in the kitchens across the subcontinent.
Think Tank Subcommittee Member
